Every Secret iPhone Code (Plus the One That Hijacks Your Calls and Texts)

Open the Phone app on your iPhone, go to the keypad, type the code below and press call. A screen pops up with a line for every kind of forwarding on your line, voice, data, fax, SMS. You want every line to say Disabled.

If one of them says On and shows a number you don't recognize, someone is getting a copy of your calls. If the SMS line is on, they're getting your texts too, and that includes every two factor code your bank sends you. That's the whole attack from the video.

Run it on your own phone. It takes ten seconds and changes nothing.

Saw a number you didn't set? Type this and press call. It erases every forwarding rule on your line in one shot, no menus. You'll see Setting Erasure Succeeded for each type. Now run the check again, boom, everything reads Disabled.

It's harmless to run even if you're clean. I run it every couple of months just to be safe.

Call forwarding is a normal carrier feature. The problem is how easy it is to switch on. The code that forwards everything looks like this: **21* then a phone number then #. Thirty seconds with your unlocked phone is all it takes, and the phone shows no icon, no banner, nothing.

The other version is the courier or bank scam. Someone calls, says they need to verify your line, and reads you a code to dial. You dial it, you just forwarded your own calls to them.

Two rules. Never dial a code someone reads to you over the phone. And only ever run forwarding codes on a line you own. Setting forwarding on someone else's phone without permission is illegal, this page exists so you can catch it, not do it.

Four conditions, and for each one you can check it, set it, or cancel it. Replace number with the full number including the country code (1 for the US, T-Mobile insists on it). Replace seconds with how long your phone rings first, 5 to 30.

##004# is the softer wipe. It clears busy, no answer and unreachable forwarding and puts them back to the default, which is your voicemail. ##002# clears all four. On Verizon the GSM strings often fail, use the carrier codes further down instead.

*#06# shows your IMEI, the serial number your phone uses on the network. On dual SIM iPhones you also get IMEI2, MEID and the EID for the eSIM. You need it to report a stolen phone, or to check a used one against a blocklist before you pay for it. Works on every iPhone, every carrier.

*#07# opens the legal and regulatory screen, the radiation exposure numbers and certifications Apple buries deep in Settings.

*3001#12345#* opens Field Test Mode, the engineering screen for your cellular radio. Real signal strength in dBm instead of bars, the tower you're on, the band you're using. Signal is negative and closer to zero is stronger. Around -80 is great, -110 is barely holding on. Nothing here changes anything, it's read only.

Two directions. Whether your number shows when you call out, and whether you see other people's numbers when they call in.

To hide your number permanently it's Settings, then Phone, then Show My Caller ID. T-Mobile flips the 31 codes around, on their network #31# shows your number and *31# hides it.

Call waiting is the beep when a second call comes in. Barring blocks calls in or out, handy on a kid's phone or a work line. The barring codes need your carrier's barring password, usually 0000 or 1234, and your carrier can reset it.

If *#33# ever shows barring you didn't set, that's a second thing worth clearing with the password.

These change the PIN on the SIM itself, the lock that stops someone moving your SIM into another phone. It's the step most people skip after a forwarding scare.

Careful with the PUK. Ten wrong tries and the SIM is dead for good. It's printed on the card the SIM came in, or sitting in your carrier account. You can also change the PIN in Settings, then Cellular, then SIM PIN.

If texts stop arriving after someone messed with your phone, the SMS center number is one of the first things to compare against your carrier's published one.

Account codes are per carrier and only work on that network. Verizon grew up on CDMA, so the GSM forwarding strings above often fail there and the star codes below do the job instead.

T-Mobile has a whole extra layer. #664# turns Scam ID on and #634# turns it off. #662# turns Scam Block on, #632# turns it off, #787# shows the status. #766# and #763# switch international data roaming on and off. #793# resets your voicemail password, #999# shows a prepaid balance.

AT&T also has *3286# for your usage in Spanish, plus *639# for upgrade eligibility and *729 to pay the bill, though those last two show up on other code lists and I haven't run them myself. Verizon has #874 for your upgrade date, #832 to place a test call after activation, and #7623 for roadside assistance.

Vertical service codes. They work on nearly every US carrier and even landlines, no # at the end, dial them right before the number where shown.

*57 is the one nobody knows. Get a threatening call, hang up, dial *57, and the carrier keeps a record the police can pull, even if the number was hidden.

Every code on one screen so you're not scrolling back here mid keypad. Paste it into Notes.

Do these in order and you close every door at once.

1. ##002# to wipe forwarding, then *#21# again to confirm every line reads Disabled.
2. Change your SIM PIN with **04* so the SIM can't be moved to another phone.
3. Change your Apple ID password and turn on two factor under your name in Settings, then Sign-In & Security. Move your bank and email to an authenticator app instead of SMS codes, forwarding can't touch those.
4. Check Settings, then Phone, then Call Forwarding, and Settings, then Messages, then Send & Receive, for anything you didn't add. The 60 second settings sweep walks through all of it.
5. Call your carrier, ask for a port out lock and an account PIN. If forwarding comes back after all that, someone still has access. Factory reset and get the SIM reissued.

If the person who did this has had your phone in their hands and you feel unsafe, change your passcode to one they don't know and reach out to a domestic safety resource. The technical fix and the personal safety side are both real.

Setting interrogation failed or invalid MMI code usually means one of five things. Wi-Fi Calling grabbed the code instead of the cellular network, turn it off and try again. No real signal. Dual SIM and you're querying the wrong line, switch the line in the Phone app. Verizon, which never fully supported the GSM strings, use the star codes. Or the carrier just doesn't offer that one, in which case nothing happens and that's normal.

Type them exactly. The strings are picky about every star and pound.

Everything here is for checking and securing your own iPhone, or one you have permission to test. The check and wipe codes are safe on your own line. The forwarding and barring codes are not a toy, configuring them on someone else's phone without consent is illegal in most places. Run the check on your own phone tonight, then send this to someone you care about so they can too. If you want the Android side as well, the master list covers both.